Tuesday, March 16, 2010

Vatican City, The Vatican

It seemed only fitting to start my exploration of Roma with the Vatican. I set out around 10am and after walking 2 blocks to the W I found a fruit and veggie market. This must be the one the hostel guy was trying to show me on the map--so much for his directions. Inside I found a rainbow of deliciously fresh foods. The hardest part was choosing what to get without buying more than I could eat in 6 days. I picked up a pound of pasta, onion, zucchini, apples, bananas, red pepper, bread, 6 eggs, and basil. I dumped my goods back at the hostel and headed back out for the Vatican.

Take two took me to St. Peter's Basilica. Just walking around the corner and seeing this monstrous building is awe inspiring. There's a line to get into the basilica so they can scan your bags on the way in. Someone nearby said it was 2 hours. I had nothing better to do, so I jumped in line. Whilst enjoying the sun, I decided to catch up on my bible reading so as to maximize my time. I made it about halfway through II Corinthians when I reached the bag scanner and only in 45 mins. Good thing I committed to the line! There's so much to see inside. Small chapels line the sides each with their own massive frescoes and altars. Everywhere you look there's exquisite marble statues, designed flooring and hordes of people floating around with their touring groups. Since it's spring break there are noisy student groups all over. After winding your way to the main sanctuary you are greeted by a huge, carved wooden canopy that stands above the front altar. Behind that is the second altar with a gorgeous sunburst stained glass on the back wall. Everything is giant sized and dwarfs your existence.

I stopped for a brief while to listen to a mass taking place in one of the side chapels. After a few more pictures I stepped into the chapel reserved exclusively for prayer--no pictures as the guards continually remind you on the way in. Through the velvet gray curtain is a quiet chapel filled with incense and a classically ornate Catholic altar (gold, icons, cabinets for communion, the works). Something about being in Roma and at one of the most well known churches in the world in a small chapel away from the zooming mopeds, police sirens and chatty Italians brings comfort, peace and movements of the Spirit. All I can say is I'm grateful for a quiet, healing moment. From here I caught the Pieta carving (Mary holding JC after the cross) and meandered to the Vatican Post Office. You can't be here and not send at least one piece of mail from the Vatican. It's just plain cool.

Since it was only 12:30pm I decided to check out the Vatican Museum. My reward would be the suggested gelateria just outside that gives large portions. For E15 you can sample the wonders of the Vatican archives. I say sample because the majority of the treasures are hidden away inside the restricted areas of the city. Nevertheless what's visible is quite stunning. Bits of history from 2000BC in Egypt to the early church to the Medieval era to present day modern art pack the rooms leading you up to the Sistene Chapel. You can only walk in one direction and there's no backtracking, so I opted to take my time and savor the walk. Four hours later I reached the Sistene Chapel. I have to say, on first impression, I wasn't all that impressed. Certainly the amount of work, talent and history that went into its creation is stunning and deserving respect and awe. Overall I'd classify the chapel as ADHD. There are so many scenes and pictures going on that it's hard to focus on any one area. Inside there was a sea of people muttering with constant attention from the guards to be quiet and not take pictures--no small feat for multiple groups of 40 teenagers scattered about the room. [This is my one shot of the chapel from the outside stairwell.] The chapel is empty except for the altar against the wall at one end and the organ at the far opposite end. I did find it interesting that the one scene probably most known from the chapel (the divine touch I think they call it where the two hands are about to touch fingers) is on the ceiling about 1/3 of the way out from the altar. Amongst the entire chapel filled with biblical stories and images of biblical characters, this one small (perhaps a section about 6'x 10'--best guess that far away) image is chosen. Lest you think this is the end of the museum, once you leave the chapel you have a long way to walk before you can exit. Most of these things aren't quite as interesting as the rest, though the ceiling paintings are quite nice.

After many hours and lots of miles trod, my gelato delight awaited me. At Old Bridge gelateria you can get 3 huge scoops for E2. I sampled Blood Orange, Caramel and Cream with Pine Nuts. Wow, wow and WOW. All 3 were amazing. I can't wait to go back!!

On the way back to the hostel I stopped in to the grocery store I couldn't find yesterday and picked up some garlic, smoked mozzarella, olive oil and wine. For dinner I whipped up some chicken, basil, zucchini, garlic, onion and olive oil over pasta. Talk about tasty! Along with a glass of a local red wine, I was quite content. I even met two young people from Melbourne, Australia.

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