Lacquer Ware Have You Come From?

Day 2 in the redish arid landscape of Bagan. We drove across the street from the hotel (mind you, this was in a huge tourist bus) to view a cross built into the side of a pagoda. After our far excursion, we drove back to the hotel so our leader could do something he forgot. Our second outing of the day took us to the Thra bar gate where we stopped for 20 minutes to take pictures of two statues. This was truly thrilling.

When we had eaten lunch and rested at the hotel from 1-4pm (this was a good thing as it is the hottest part of the day and I had already died 3x over from heat exhaustion), we moved on to a lacquer ware shop to learn the lengthy process of bamboo and flexible horse hair lacquer pieces. High quality lacquer ware takes anywhere from 6 months to a couple years to make. First the lacquer must be harvested from lacquer trees—something akin to collecting rubber or maple tree sap. One needs something to lacquer next. Two main types of material used at the shop we stopped at: bamboo and horse hair. Bamboo is coiled or woven to form rigid shapes while woven horse hair is as flexible as rubber.

Once you have a specific object created, a coating of black lacquer, ash and clay is applied. The process shifts to a time consuming back and forth between layering lacquer, drying it in a cellar and sanding/washing it. When the desired shininess and thickness are achieved, the piece is either finished as a shiny black or sent on for scribing and coloring. Colored pieces have colored lacquer added until thick enough to scratch down into to create a design with various pointed tools similar looking to calligraphy pens or dental tools. Artisans can etch in lines or blocks for extremely intricate animals, scenery or geometric designs. In-between colors coats of clear lacquer are added. At this shop I only saw red, yellow, green and blue coloring. Pieces ranged from monochromatic to all available colors.

What makes lacquer ware unique is its ability to waterproof, shine, fireproof and make unbreakable whatever it coats. Road (or temple) side salespeople would often show us how a lighter would not burn the piece and smashing it on the ground would not nick or crack it.

For very in-depth information:
http://asianspiritgallery.com/burmese-lacquerware-burma-lacquer-ware/

And Now Introducing...

I roused from bed at the usual time to head downstairs for a taxi ride to church. Dress for the day included my longest skirt and a t-shirt; best to cover up as much skin as possible for the conservative Baptist flavor that fills much of Myanmar. Adrian had replaced his usual wear with a long sleeved shirt and a tie (the expected clothing for male foreigners). A good friend of Hrang from seminary met us and shuffled us into a taxi. We arrived at the church 20 minutes later.

Shortly after being introduced to some of the church elders, Adrian and I were asked to decide who would get up and speak a few words of welcome and thanks for their inviting us. When our friend translated this for us he distinctly said whoever was going to speak should offer thanks from the US. Adrian took this to mean I was the chosen one. :) Not the first time I've been asked on the spot to greet or give thanks. Kind of comes with the ministry territory.

So began the 2 hour sit-a-thon in high heat/humidity. I don't think I have ever fallen asleep during a sermon, but this was dangerously close. I could barely keep my eyes open as it was all spoken in Burmese and just sitting made you sweat. Despite the hot weather, we were offered a song book in English so we could participate.

After the service we joined the two pastors who led the service and some of the church folk for lunch. At this meal, as at most, we were treated to generous portions of rice, oily onion soup and flavored meats (curried chicken, fried fish with tomatoes and some version of what looked like beef). Our hosts encouraged us to take seconds and to "eat up!" Eating hot food actually doesn't make you feel any warmer than before. The food was always delicious and filling.