Aix-iled

Though the name of the town is spelled Aix-en-Provence, it's pronounced Ex. Just a 15 minute bus ride puts you in a quieter, less industrial and quaint town. Life seems slower here, though Marseille doesn't seem to be hurtling forward at the speed of light. From the height of Cezanne's studio on the N end of town you can see the rolling green hills spotted with small houses and sunlight. Puffy white clouds float through the sapphire blue sky. It's enough to make anyone wax eloquent about the artsy side of life. It's even easier to see why impressionism took root here.

Upon first look the town winds though small side streets and squares. I booked tickets at the first family home and Cezanne's studio before beginning with the Cezanne walk for a chance to see part of the city. Bronze plaques in the sidewalk and street mark the direction for your walk. I passed the school where Cezanne failed his basic tests in elementary school and had to retake them. I saw houses where his children, parents and friends lived. I passed buildings where old cafes used to be and still are that Cezanne and his friends frequented. When I started getting hungry I happened to be in a more commercial part of town and I saw a bagel shop. Yes, I wanted to eat French food, but the bagel consumed my tastebuds and once I knew how inexpensive they were I had to have one. In a short time I devoured a deliciously warm wheat bagel with cheddar and chutney (which Megan informs me is quite French). I almost went back for another when I decided I should sample some other foods in the town. Further down the Cezanne trail I discovered an organic foods store where I picked up some kind of pale colored food that looked like chopped up nuts in a yellow sauce with golden raisins and peas. It had a mustard sauce that after a few bites cleared out the sinuses. Plus it all came in a biodegrable container made of paper (lid and all) with a wooden spork. Around the corner I wandered into a local fruit and veggie market where I picked up an organically grown orange. The woman decided that for one orange it wasn't necessary to pay, so it was free. A bit further down I found some almonds and raisins (my version of travel trail mix). Such a delicious lunch! I enjoyed my treats sitting on a fountain watching the market and small kids playing in the water of the fountain.

Now filled I continued with the trail a bit more until I reached the large round about again. A little over a kilometer walk brought me to my first of two tours: the Jas de Bouffan house. Jas is the provencal word for shepherd hut which is what first stood on the property. The Bouffan family bought the land and kept the hut (which later degraded) building their rich house right next to it. The 4 rows of tiles under the eaves of the roof explain the very wealthy status of the family. Most provencal homes had 3 at the time. Eventually the family fell into financial troubles and Cezanne's father (first a shopkeeper turned banker with his fortunes) leant them money. Unable to make payments after some time, the house entered the Cezanne family. One of the upper windows was extended above the roofline to allow more natural light in where Cezanne painted. His first works were painted for his father in the side theater room on the first floor to prove he was good enough at painting. The works have since been removed and placed in museums. Around the property you can still see the landscape where Cezanne did 9 of his paintings. Modernized, it's a bit challenging to imagine just what it looked like, but the house, farm building, wall, pool, row of trees and garden shed are all still the same. All that's missing are the wide rolling green hills now filled with houses and businesses [the house used to be out in the country].

From here I walked back to town and then North of the town 800km. Why is it that the map never bothers to mention it's uphill?? I arrived at Cezanne's studio just before the tour started which happened to be in French. I caught a few words here and there. A large portion of his tools, props and personal effects (painting easel, smocks, letters, sketches, etc.) are still in the studio. I saw the famous green jug and rum bottle which appeared in many of his paintings. The most striking feature of the second floor room is the N wall covered in windows. It looked to be about 5m wide and 4m high or 15'x 12'.

I contemplated staying in Aix-en-Provence for dinner, but most places were pricey and I needed something a bit more filling than another bagel. I caught the bus back to town and finished off my chicken, veggies and rice. Gearing up for another day trip tomorrow.