Fountains surrounded by tightly packed tulips in full bloom line the hillside along the path down to the main casino and gardens in-between of exotic flowers 
fill the open space. High end shops along the street remind you that you are in a lavish place in case you missed the darkly tinted car windows on the Rolls Royce or the Porsche you just passed. Everywhere you go in Monaco the streets and buildings feel light, clean and full of history. Even the underground walking tunnels are sleek stone and brightly lit.
I longed for a map of the province. My Lonely Planet guidebook is rather ungainly when you are trying to walk, see the sights and blend in a bit to not be the obvious tourist. I planned to head N from the casino and then to the W where there was a lovely Jardin Exotique. I made my way uphill where street signs were scarce and nothing matched with my book when I consulted it. After about a half hour of wandering, I finally located a street in my book. Somehow I had wandered out of Monaco and into Beausoleil--noticeably marked by the change in scenery and the more modest housing. I headed back downhill and followed a main road W until I happened upon the train station. A map of the local bus routes was out front which helped me navigate to the garden. Basically I followed the bus route until I saw signs for the garden. Check out their website: http://www.jardin-exotique.mc/
The views and the plants were well worth the trip. Inside are terraces filled with cacti and succulents--in the corner of France! The garden was started by Albert I in 1902 and later Prince Grace Kelly encouraged it's care. During building a cave was discovered at the bottom of the garden which Prince Albert insisted be opened to the public. In 1955, a Prehistoric Anthropology Museum was added which included some of the human and animal finds from the cave. The garden was delightfully peaceful and an excellent way to unwind after spending an hour wandering aimlessly and hiking uphill to the garden. Word to the wise...take the bus there. The cave was a nice aside at a sultry and humid 18.65C. I've seen many before, but none in France and none with a tour given in French.
Having spotted stairs heading toward the palace area on the way to the garden, I was one step ahead for my descent. I actually did one better by taking the elevator down a couple levels to the road I wanted to be on. Surprisingly I ended up in the middle of a park on the hillside. I walked back past the elevator and was in a parking garage. Fortuitously though below the parking floor listings was a stack of city maps! If only I had known to come here 3 hours ago! Navigating to the palace as a cake walk now. I easily made my way down 12 stories in the elevator to the road and another 3 sets of lengthy stairs to the palace.
Situated on a peninsula overlooking the Mediterranean and up a steep rampway winding back and forth is the Monaco Palace. The royal family of Albert II currently resides there who shares the space with about 250 some skilled caretakers divided into groups such as masonry, groundskeeping and cooking. Apparently a palace requires significant support.
I circled the old walled fortress which has been modified repeatedly since its inception. What is visible today has not changed much since the 17th century. I paused at the Oceanographic Museum and Aquarium which catalogued a great deal of marine history from the 1800s during Albert I's reign. He was eager to learn about ocean life and commissioned trips by Dr. __ (I can't remember his name nor can I find it online) on the Princess Alice II to study, preserve and explore the seas. 
Later on he founded the present museum. I must say it's quite strange to see a squid or a fish preserved in a jar of chemicals from 1859. The displays of the tools and equipment they used was very informative. Much of their gear was designed by the exploration team to fit the exact needs they had. Weather indicators, harpoons, preservation processes, nets and the like were all finely tuned to the study. The Aquarium downstairs was equally impressive. 
Colorful and more bland species of fish floated and sped effortlessly through tanks of water. The only lighting on this level was blue lights which gave the feeling you were in a submarine.
A short walk down the road from the museum takes you right to the palace. I was eager to check out the tour to learn more about the royalty of Monaco. Turns out they give you an audio guide as part of the tour price (not usually the case) and you can see 14 rooms in the palace. My personal favorite was the last one where it says you are in the grand hall and the tour is over but the room is about 6'x6'. Now that's what I call "grand."
There was a screen up, so it could have been larger. No, the best room was probably the Throne Room. I saw the actual throne for coronations and there are great portraits of the royal family many generations back. The best was the stunning one of Prince Ranier III with wife Grace Kelly and their two daughters Stephanie and Caroline and son Albert II. I was even greeted by the current Prince Albert II on the audio guide. Next door and included in the palace tour was the Napoleon Museum. Bits of random memorabilia from Napoleon's life. Like the cradle he gave to his adopted daughter or the booties and gown he wore as a kid. The best piece was a letter written by Louis XII in his own hand conceding the land of Monaco as its own principality.After a busy day wandering the land of Monaco, a good rest at the hostel was in order. Dinner was two enormous slices of turkey with some kind of wine reduction brown sauce (tasted great), a side salad and rice with sun-dried tomatoes and herbs. Filling and a wide range of flavors.
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