Packing It In

Most sights in Europe seem to choose at least one day a week where they close up. In Venezia Wednesday happened to be the day when most things I wanted to see were closed. Instead of perusing the buildings I had hoped to see, I spent the day hopping through churches and some museums I hadn't put too high on my list.

First was the Gallery of Modern and Oriental Art. The modern side I felt was lacking a bit, but there were a few pieces that caught my eye. Most of the art in this section was paintings that were from the 17-19th centuries. Only one room had what most people think of when they hear the words "modern art." Upstairs was a huge collection of Asian spears, clothing, battle gear, instruments, tea pots, chess sets, daily pottery and furniture. A relative of one of the doges' family had taken a 2 year trip to Asia from Venezia and collected vast amounts of stuff which changed hands to an antiquer upon his death and was now put on display at this museum.

My first church was Santa Maria de Visitaz on the far S coast of Venezia. This church had been built as a tiny chapel in the 10th century I think and was later rebuilt in the 13 or 14th century to its present size with about 6-8 side chapels and one large main sanctuary that could probably seat about 50-75 people tops. Like most church buildings in Italy everything is built out of marble. The second church was just down the coast about 150m named San Sebastiano. This one had been designed with the main entrance facing a bridge so as to be somewhat exclusive of who would enter the church. An attached convent (unviewable) indicated this was a pretty active church at one point. The choir box alone was completely carevd out of wood or finished with inlaid wood and seated about 40 I think. Huge sweeping spaces without pews or chairs and 2 smaller chapels on the left/right of the main one up front made for a vast building. There weren't side chapels per se, but multiple monuments to famous political leaders and local saints can be found all around the inside. From here I took the water bus back through the Grand Canal to San Stae.

Church #3 was San Stae which is situated right along the Grand Canal. Like all the churches along the water the facade is intricate, huge and white marble. The inside was very plain made of white marble and lacked any real character. Church #4 was by far my favorite--San Giacomo dell'Orio. Situated in a large piazza named after the church, the building was made out of brick with a mix of square and round rooms. I think it dated from somewhere in the 10-12 centuries. Inside was a cozy, open floor plan sanctuary spreading out in all directions. The roof was wood rafters. The main worship space was straight ahead with pews to seat about 75 people and plenty of space to add chairs. Off to the right were some side chapels. To the right side of the main altar was the eucharist altar with lush red fabric lining the walls. To the left of the main altar was a rather plain side chapel with one of many versions I've seen of a crucifix. To the left side of the main worship space was a sacristy filled with paintings on the ceiling and upper walls. Next door to the sacristy was a small room now being used as a chapel. It was plain brick with a cross on one wall and some candles and I think there was a font in there. I lit a couple candles before moving on. On my way out I noticed they had services listed for the rest of holy week. This would definitely be my Maundy Thursday destination.

Church #5 was San Polo, just SW of where my B&B was. Situated in a larger piazza than the last one, the church was much smaller and also made of brick. Inside was a fair amount of marble though it did have a wood roof. Quite a bit of water damage was visible around the roof edges and down the walls. In the back of the main sanctuary was the chapel of the crucifix where paintings of the stations of the cross could be seen. There were some lovely built arches in the church. It could seat about 200 people. Church #6 was Santa Maria del Frari. Another huge cathedral like church, the facade and campanile rose high above the surrounding buildings. The main sanctuary sprawled out in front of me which could easily seat close to 350 people in pews and chairs. I don't know that they ever see a crowd that big however. Off to the far right was a tiny side room which could have been a chapel or any number of things. This was the only part my church pass was necessary and it certainly wasn't worth paying E3 to see. The few paintings in the room were not that exciting and the bits of statues were nice, but nothing to write home about. I'm glad I had the pass and didn't waste a ton of cash to see this one;eventhough the main part was decent.

I took a break from churches here and stopped in at Piazza San Marco to take in the Correr Museum before it was too late and closed. The building is actually a compilation of 3 different museums housed together. Inadvertently I ended up seeing the Correr and National Archeological Museums and the Monumental Halls of Marciana National Library. My pass got me into all 3, I just hadn't planned on seeing all 3. All very interesting though. I'm not sure what the rooms in this building were used for originally, but it made for a nice museum.

Finally to the last 2 churches!! Church #7 was Santa Maria del Giglio. I don't actually remember what this one looked like after having seen so many. My map tells me it was very small. Church #8 was Santo Stefano. Also situated on a large piazza named for the church, I don't remember much from this one either. I know I saw another 2-3 free churches without my pass as well and after a while they all start to blend together. I started making notes on my map to help me remember, but apparently neglected that for these last two churches. In the end, it was a busy day.

Dinner was at La Zucca (Italian for pumpkin) where I arrived to a completely full restaurant. The head guy said unless I wanted to share a table with a couple, I'd have to wait until 9pm to get a seat. I'm all for sharing a table if it means I get to eat an hour before the place clears out so that I'm not starving or searching the evening streets of Venice for another place to eat. A couple who spoke French kindly allowed me to have the window seat at their table. I enjoyed some tagliatelli with gorgonzola cream sauce and pistaccios. Fabulous! The cheese was a bit strong to eat a whole plateful of without any other flavors, but all in all quite good.