Wednesday, July 22, 2009

For Whom The Bell Tolls


Today began with a drive through downtown Mandalay past the popular Zay Cho market and a huge downtown clock tower on our way to the bank of the Ayarwady River. This might be some of the worst living conditions we have seen so far. Small shacks and huts closely built along the river house families working in fishing or boat tours. Literally on the bank, the ground was rutted and muddy. Locals bathed and washed clothes in the brown, opaque river. Some live on their boats which are packed in about 5 two story boats deep along the shore. We walked out across 3-4 to see the river and the bank. Small boats with double bed sized sails patchworked together float by. After a half hour or so we boarded the bus where Stefan suggested we consider taking a boat ride this afternoon to see King Mingdon’s (who founded former Burman capital Mandalay) unfinished temple and the 90 ton bell replica replacing the one built centuries ago by the king which fell into the Ayarwady River never to be recovered. No one objected and our group leader wandered off to make arrangements.


The church was pretty like most are. We sat for a bit while a local member explained the new sidewalk they were constructing outside and some of the programs they offer. As churches start to blend together in my mind, I think this one touted a baptismal font made of marble from the Queen of England.

Our final stop of the morning was a Methodist bible school. We were scheduled to lead chapel for them at 10am. Thanks to our intrepid group leader, we arrived 15 minutes late. Naturally they went on without us. We joined in worship to find at the end they suggested we have a question and answer session with them. Three seminary professors teaching in Myanmar had joined us for our northern study tour and our new friends at the Methodist school decided this would be a lovely time to put them in the hot seat. Amusingly the students had an assignment to write on various theological questions and this was an excellent way for them to research :) For the next 2 hours we participated in a lively session of theology. Jackie and I agreed that this was a most interesting and engaging part of the trip for us. I had food for thought when I arrived back at the hotel to ponder.

Enjoying the breeze and bananas on the boat ride was delightful. It was nice to sit and relax in the cool air. Upon arriving up river, we were greeted by a swarm of children who proceeded to question us and act as our “tour guides” telling us all about the area, where they lived and their willingness to walk us all the way to the top of the unfinished temple. Like all other holy temples in Myanmar we removed our shoes before entering. This time, however, we were basically walking up roughly 150 stairs with weeds encroaching from the edges and pieces of brush and crumbled rock on the path. I tried to step gingerly to protect my feet while balancing my bag and listening to the 2 kids accompanying me. I successfully reached the top to a lovely, far reaching view of the river, the 2 gargantuan half crumbled elephant/lion statues guarding the temple and the local town. I video taped my two guides and had them translate a grouping of stones arranged to spell out “I love so and so.” Then tragedy struck. While heading to the far side of the temple, gouged and cracked with deep ravines, I acquired a splinter in the bottom of my foot. Brilliant. We walk most places and who knows what kind of toxins were on the bit of wood. One of the two kids ventured off to procure a toothpick from a friend which I managed to use to get about half of it out—enough to allow me to walk down without pushing it in further. Surprisingly none of my group noticed my trouble. Shortly after my two guides indicated they were going to stay up top and requested I consider sponsoring their school with a donation. Pleased with their accompaniment and care I offered them some kyats. Stefan informed us earlier part of their congenial ploy was to guide tourists to the top, ask for money since they weren’t going to return for a while and often to follow you down regardless of whether they received money.

Before returning to the boat, we ventured to the large 90 ton bell. Each of us rang it using a 2 foot long and 4” wide chunk of wood with a carved out handle in the middle by ramming it into the bell. Great fun! How often do you get to do that?? I think Amy kindly captured a picture of me.

Later in the evening at the hotel I expertly used my tweezers and a can of Sprite to chill my foot and removed the remnants of the overall ¼” long splinter.

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